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FABCRETE Products Application
Guide
Printable
application guide in PDF format
GENERAL PRODUCT INFORMATION
Fabcrete Concrete Designs offers a variety of concrete
acid stains and concrete sealers designed especially for the “Do-It-Yourself”
type individuals. We currently offer nineteen different colors and two types of
sealers. Please see the color chart for our selection of colors. No special
tools are required to perform these projects, other than a garden sprayer with
all plastic parts in the spraying apparatus. Hudson manufactures a sprayer of
this type. Most Home Depot and Lowe’s store locations supply the sprayers. If
you have questions about the Hudson line of sprayers, please refer to their
website at www.hdhudson.com , or feel free
to contact us. All other tools and equipment can be obtained at most hardware or
discount stores. See the application directions for the sealer, stain and
scoring processes for specific tool and equipment requirements.
ESTIMATING MATERIALS
1. Calculate the total square footage of the area to be
stained and sealed. To do this, multiply the length by the width. Don’t forget
to add any small areas such as hallways, sidewalks, etc.
2. Calculate the amount of stain. Divide the total square footage by 150 sf/gal.
Round the number up to the nearest whole number. The rounded number will be the
number of gallons of stain required for your project and will be enough for a
two-coat application.
3. The amount of sealer needed for your project will equal the amount of stain
that was calculated in Step No. 2 and will also be enough for a two-coat
application.
MATERIAL PRICING
Acid Stain per gallon - $50.00 each plus shipping
Acid Stain per 5 gallon - $200.00 each plus shipping
Acid Stain sample bottles (4 oz.) - $2.00 each plus shipping
Fab-Seal per gallon - $35.00 each plus shipping
Fab-Seal per 5 gallon - $135.00 each plus shipping
Fab-Seal H2O per gallon - $35.00 each plus shipping
Fab-Seal H2O per 5 gallon - $135.00 each plus shipping
Please note: Prices are effective as of March 23, 2006 and are subject to
change at any time. These items are considered “hazardous materials” by our
shipping agents. They may only be shipped via ground. Please allow 3 - 7
business days for all orders.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Question: Can an average
“do-it-yourselfer” do this work themselves? Answer: Yes, you can. These
products were designed with the “do-it-yourselfer” in mind.
Question: How durable is the sealed finish?
Answer: The
durability of the sealed finish depends on the following conditions: weather and
temperature conditions, amount of traffic and the quality and amount of periodic
maintenance. On average and depending on the mentioned conditions, sealed
surfaces can last for several years before a reapplication of sealer is needed.
Fading of the stained color is a good indicator that the floor needs to be
resealed.
Question: Is it safe for pets to walk on the finish?
Answer: Yes, it
is safe for pets to walk on the surface, but only after the final coat of sealer
has been allowed to cure for at least one week.
Question: Will the sealed surface be slick when wet?
Answer: Yes, the
sealed surface may become slick when wet. Shark’s Grip can be added to the final
coat of sealer to produce a more “skid-resistant” surface. Please see the
“SEALER APPLICATION GUIDE” for application directions for the Shark’s Grip
product.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
In using these products, please understand that due to the
variations in composition of concrete mixtures across the country, concrete
finishing techniques and our inability to physically be able to control the
method of use and application of our products, Fabcrete does not offer any
guarantees nor warranties concerning the outcome of using these acid staining
products.
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ACID STAIN APPLICATION GUIDE
Fabcrete concrete acid stains create a chemical reaction with
the limes in cement products to form rich and varied surface tones that are
reminiscent of fine marble or aged leather. The variegations in tone directly
depend on the composition of the concrete mix and the finish and condition of
the surface, as well as the application methods used in applying the acid stain.
Newly poured concrete should be allowed to cure for 28 days prior to staining
and sealing. In using these products, please understand that due to the
variations in composition of concrete mixtures across the country, concrete
finishing techniques and our inability to physically be able to control the
method of use and application of our products, Fabcrete does not offer any
guarantees nor warranties concerning the outcome of using these acid staining
products.
!!!! CAUTION !!!!
APPLY FABCRETE ACID STAIN IN A WELL-VENTILATED SPACE.
Open windows, doors and place a fan in the work area to assist in ventilating
the work area. Respirators should be worn during application process. WEAR
PROTECTIVE CLOTHING, EYEWEAR AND RUBBER GLOVES. CALL PHYSICIAN IF STAIN IS
INGESTED OR CONTACTS EYES.
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
1. Fabcrete Acid Stain – quantity based on your area at a
coverage rate of 150 square feet per gallon (2 coats)
2. Ventilation equipment (fan) and protective clothing – see above
3. Cleaning equipment – mop, bucket, ½ pound baking soda, Dawn detergent or
another acid-free degreaser
4. Cardboard and plastic sheeting – preferably the type that is purchased with
adhesive tape attached
5. Cotton socks – one thick pair or two thin pairs
6. Plastic pump-up garden sprayer with all plastic parts in spraying apparatus
(Hudson brand)
PREPARATION FOR STAINING
DO NOT ACID ETCH THE CONCRETE SURFACE OR
USE ACID-BASED CLEANERS OF ANY KIND DURING THE CLEANING PROCESS. Using these
products will not allow the acid stain to properly penetrate into the concrete
resulting in lighter than “normal” colors. Remember, the variegations in tone
depend on the composition of the concrete mix and the finish and condition of
the surface, as well as the application methods used in applying the acid stain.
The concrete surface must be clean of all sealers, greases, paints, adhesives
and all other contaminants that can prevent the acid stain from etching into the
concrete. Clean the concrete surface with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate), or another
degreasing detergent such as Dawn dishwashing liquid, by thoroughly washing and
scrubbing the surface. This will help remove any stains or dirt that may be
present. Glues or adhesives that may be on the concrete surface due to
previously present flooring such as tile or carpet must also be removed. Remove
as much of the glue or adhesive as possible by scraping with a razor knife. Any
hardened glues or adhesives can be softened using paint thinner. The surface of
the concrete may also need to be lightly sanded with a floor sander or hand
sander to open the pours of the concrete to allow for better stain penetration.
Do not wear shoes on the floor after it has been cleaned or stained. Oils in
shoe soles will transfer to the concrete surface leaving shoe prints. Use proper
precaution to avoid acid stain from allowing to contact the feet and other areas
of the skin.
STAINING PROCEDURES
1. Ventilate the room and dress in the proper attire as
outlined above. Protect any exposed walls, walkways, etc. with plastic sheeting.
The cardboard will be used as a shield in front of the sheeting when spraying
the perimeter walls.
2. Shake the stain well and pour it into the plastic pump-up garden sprayer. Set
the sprayer so that it sprays in a fine mist. (It is a good idea to test and
practice using the sprayer with water on a different surface prior to stain
application) Starting in a far corner of the staining area, remembering to wear
socks, spray the stain (just enough to wet the concrete surface) in circular
motions while walking yourself out of the room. Let the area dry for 24 hours.
In time, you will notice a residue that will form on the concrete. Do not be
alarmed by the residue. It is due to the chemical reaction that takes place
between the acid stain and the limes in the concrete and may be present in
various colors.
3. After allowing the first coat of stain to dry for 24 hours, wet a small area
of the concrete with clean water. Wetting the concrete will simulate sealer
being applied to the floor and will bring out the color of the stain. If the
color tone that is present is sufficient, proceed to Step No. 4. If a darker
tone is desired, proceed in applying another coat of stain in the same process
in which the first coat was applied. Remember to not allow anyone to walk on the
floor with shoes after the stain has been applied. Also, be sure that you are
satisfied with the color tone that has been achieved. Once the floor is sealed,
the color of the floor is permanent and it cannot be changed.
4. After the desired color tone has been achieved, use a cotton or rayon mop to
mop a solution consisting of a ½ pound of baking soda mixed in 5 gallons of
clean water onto the stained area. DO NOT SCRUB THE STAINED AREA. This solution
will neutralize the acid and will help to remove some of the residue that formed
during the chemical reaction that has taken place. The solution will not remove
all of the residue. Mop over the area with the solution one time. Then, mop the
area twice more with clean water. Remove the sheeting and allow the floor to dry
for a period of 24 hours prior to proceeding to the sealing process.
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SEALER APPLICATION GUIDE
Concrete sealer is used to bring out the true color of
acid-stained concrete and to provide a layer of protection against stains and
dirt. Our Fab-Seal is a very long lasting, durable finish that dries to a
high-gloss finish. It is non-yellowing, acrylic-based sealer that penetrates
deeply. Due to environmental regulations, we cannot ship Fab-Seal to California.
We can, however, ship our Fab-Seal H2O to California. In using these products,
please understand that due to the variations in the finish of concrete surfaces
and our inability to physically be able to control it’s use and application,
Fabcrete does not offer any guarantees nor warranties concerning the outcome of
using these concrete sealing products.
!!!! CAUTION !!!!
FAB-SEAL IS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE!!! DO NOT
APPLY SEALERS NEAR OPEN-FLAMES OR OTHER SOURCES OF HEAT. TURN OFF THE PILOT
LIGHT AND GAS ON ALL GAS-OPERATED APPLIANCES.
APPLY FAB-SEAL IN A WELL-VENTILATED SPACE. Open windows and doors and place a
fan in the work area to assist in ventilating the work area. Respirators should
be worn during the application process.
WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING, EYEWEAR AND RUBBER GLOVES.
CALL A PHYSICIAN IF SEALER IS INGESTED OR CONTACTS EYES.
KEEP PETS AND CHILDREN AWAY FROM THE SEALING AREA AT ALL TIMES.
SEALED CONCRETE SURFACES MAY BE SLICK WHEN WET WITH WATER OR OTHER LIQUIDS.
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
1. Fab-Seal or Fab-Seal H2O Sealer - quantity based on your
area at a coverage rate of 150 square feet per gallon (2 coats)
2. Applicators (1 for each coat) – either ¼” knap roller, car wash brush or wax
applicator pad (lamb’s wool)
3. Paintbrush
4. Paint rolling pan
5. Xylene or Mineral Spirits
6. Cotton socks – one thick pair or two thin pairs
SEALING PROCEDURES
1. Ventilate the room and dress in the proper attire as
outlined above. Turn off the pilot light and gas to all gas-operated appliances.
Do not wear shoes on the floor after the staining and cleaning process, nor
during the sealing process. Oils in shoe soles will transfer to the concrete
surface leaving shoe prints.
2. Pour the sealer into a paint rolling pan and, remembering to wear the socks,
begin applying the sealer in a light coat with the chosen applicator in a far
corner of the sealing area, working your way out of the area. Apply the sealer
using the paintbrush near baseboards or other objects around the perimeter of
the sealing area. DO NOT OVER-SATURATE THE APPLICATOR AS BUBBLES MAY FORM!
Proceed with this step until the entire concrete surface has been sealed.
Dispose of the applicator when finished sealing, as a new one will be required
for the next sealer application. Please note that the majority of the first coat
of sealer will soak into the concrete and will not have as much gloss as the
final coat.
3. Clean paint pan and any other item that came in contact with the sealer with
Xylene or Mineral Spirits.
4. Allow the sealer to dry for a period of at least 24 hours to allow the
tackiness to dry. Tackiness may be present for several days due to weather and
humidity conditions. Do not allow pets or individuals to walk on the floor.
5. Apply the second coat of sealer using a new applicator as described in Step
No. 3. For a final textured finish (not required), see “SHARK’S GRIP
APPLICATION” below.
6.If a third coat is desired, again, follow the directions as stated above.
SHARK’S GRIP APPLICATION
Shark’s Grip, a powdered texture additive, can be added to the
final coat of sealer to add a textured, “non-skid” finish to sealed surfaces.
One-fifth (1/5) of a large container of the Shark’s GripÔ additive should be
slowly mixed with one single gallon of sealer. Stir the sealer thoroughly. DO
NOT ADD THE ENTIRE AMOUNT OF PRODUCT TO A FIVE-GALLON CONTAINER OF SEALER, AS
THE PRODUCT WILL CLUMP TOGETHER. Apply the sealer with the additive as described
above in Step No. 2.
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PRESERVATION OF SURFACE AND MAINTENANCE
We recommend waiting a period of at least 1-week prior to
placing furniture or other items on the sealed surface. Avoid dragging furniture
on sealed surfaces. Felt tips should be placed on furniture legs and bottoms to
reduce scarring of the newly sealed floor. Keep the surface free of dirt and
other debris at all times. Clean the surface by mopping with soap and water as
often as needed, being sure to rinse and dry the surface thoroughly. Commercial
waxes can be applied to the surface to assist in the maintenance, keeping in
mind that only water-based waxes should be used with Fab-Seal H2O. Apply the wax
per the manufacturer’s instructions.
CONCRETE SCORING GUIDE
The lines that are seen on some of the pictures here on the
website are produced by scoring, or cutting, the surface of the concrete. There
are an endless variety of patterns that can be made by scoring the concrete. The
concrete can be scored either prior to staining and sealing or after staining
and sealing. If the scoring is performed prior to staining and sealing of the
concrete, the score lines will be stained with the rest of the floor. Grout can
be added to give the illusion of tile. The advantage to scoring after staining
and sealing is that the score marks will reveal the true color of the original
concrete and will create the illusion of grout lines, without the need for an
application of grout, although the scored lines will trap dirt and other debris.
Both methods and the required equipment to perform this work are outlined below:
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
1. 2” x 4” or other straight-edged object
2. 4” Makita circular saw – Model No. 4200 NH
3. 4” x ¼” diamond-tipped concrete blade
4. Chalk box (chalk line) with blue or another color of chalk
DO NOT USE RED CHALK
5. Cleaning supplies – mop, bucket, soap and water
SCORING PRIOR TO STAINING
1. After you have decided on the pattern that you wish to
score into the floor, mark the design onto the floor using a chalk box (chalk
line), being careful to only make cutting lines where actual cuts will be
located. As noted above, DO NOT USE RED CHALK, as it is a permanent color and
cannot be removed from the floor.
2. Using the 2” x 4” or other straight-edged object, cut the lines with the
circular saw, making sure to cut straight lines.
3. After the cutting is complete, remove the concrete dust by cleaning the
concrete surface with soap and water. Allow the surface to dry completely.
4. Apply the stain as recommended in the “ACID STAIN APPLICATION GUIDE” and the
sealer as recommended in the “SEALER APPLICATION GUIDE”.
SCORING AFTER STAINING
1. Apply the stain as recommended in the “ACID STAIN
APPLICATION GUIDE”.
2. Apply one coat of sealer as recommended in the “SEALER APPLICATION GUIDE”.
3. Mark your pattern as directed in Step No. 1 above.
4. Cut your pattern as directed in Step No. 2 above.
5. Clean your floor as listed in Step No. 3 above.
6. Apply another coat of sealer as recommended in the “SEALER APPLICATION
GUIDE”.
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